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Find the right tool for your next project, learn what it does and build a toolkit that works for you.
Shape · Connect · Finish
Choose the jaw shape that suits the job. A second pair of smooth-jaw pliers is useful for opening and closing jump rings.
Tapered round jaws form wire loops and curves.
Reach for it when: Making simple loops, earring dangles and wire-wrapped connections.
Place wire at the same point on the jaws to repeat a loop size. Use flat-inner-jaw pliers when you need a secure grip.
Tapered jaws grip findings and reach into small spaces.
Reach for it when: Holding small components and opening or closing jump rings.
Use two suitable pliers and twist a jump ring sideways. Pulling the ends apart can distort its shape.
Broad, flat jaws hold findings and make controlled bends.
Reach for it when: Gripping components or forming straight bends in wire.
Keep the jaws clean and use gentle pressure on soft or plated surfaces.
Angled tips give another approach to small loops, coils and findings.
Reach for it when: Working around other components when straight jaws are awkward.
Check your grip before squeezing so a delicate finding does not slip or bend.
Smooth nylon jaws help straighten and gently shape jewellery wire while reducing surface marks.
Reach for it when: Straightening soft wire and protecting delicate finishes.
Nylon helps reduce marking; it cannot guarantee a scratch-free finish. Keep jaws free of grit and test on spare wire.
A shaped tip separates the coils of a split ring.
Reach for it when: Sliding charms, tags or findings onto split rings.
Split rings have overlapping coils. Ordinary open jump rings use a different opening technique.
Forms a consistent 1.5 mm simple loop while trimming excess wire.
Reach for it when: Repeating bead links, earring dangles and similar components.
Use compatible wire within the maker’s stated limits. Inspect and close each loop as needed; this tool makes simple loops, not wrapped loops.
A tapered steel form helps shape wire rings and check their size.
Reach for it when: Making wire-wrapped rings and keeping their shape consistent.
Check the fit throughout your project. A marked mandrel measures a ring; it does not replace checking the wearer’s finger size.
Match cutting tools to the material, then choose the finishing tool your project needs.
Cut wire with a tool rated for its material and thickness. A flush cutter can leave a flatter end on its flush side.
Reach for it when: Trimming suitable soft jewellery wire, headpins and eye pins.
Hardened memory wire needs dedicated memory-wire cutters. Do not use these flush cutters on hard wire such as stainless steel.
Make a clean cut in suitable thread or cord without reaching for wire cutters.
Reach for it when: Stringing, bead weaving and trimming thread ends.
Keep wire away from edges intended for thread. Test your scissors on the actual thread you plan to use.
Shape a compatible crimp into a connection on beading wire.
Reach for it when: Finishing a strung necklace or bracelet with crimps.
Match the wire, crimp and tool sizes. Follow the tool’s sequence, then check the finished connection; simply flattening every crimp is not a universal substitute.
Helps smooth a rough bead-hole edge in materials suitable for the tool.
Reach for it when: Preparing a compatible bead with a rough edge that could damage thread.
Follow the tool instructions, use light pressure and protect your eyes. Fragile, coated or soft beads may chip; do not force a larger hole.
Keep beads on the strand, place knots neatly and explore tools for longer or woven designs.
A fine point helps guide and position a knot.
Reach for it when: Moving a knot closer to a bead or working on detailed cord projects.
Work on a stable surface and keep the sharp point away from your hands.
Helps place uniform knots between pearls or other beads.
Reach for it when: Making a knotted strand with consistent spacing.
Practise with your chosen cord and beads first. Follow the included diagrams to learn the tool’s movement.
A small spring temporarily holds a strand so loose beads do not slide off the end.
Reach for it when: Pausing a stringing project or checking its layout before finishing.
Squeeze the tabs to open the spring, insert the strand and release. Remove it before completing the permanent connection.
Feeds loose beads onto a compatible curved needle as the bowl rotates.
Reach for it when: Loading longer strands of suitable beads for bracelets, necklaces or fringe.
Use it for loading beads, not stitching a pattern. Match the bead holes, needle and thread, and follow the spinner instructions.
Hold warp threads in place while you weave rows of seed beads.
Reach for it when: Woven bracelets, hatbands and patterned beadwork.
Choose enough working width for your design and keep warp tension even. The 6-inch kit offers a wider working area.
A steady surface and a few small helpers make it easier to arrange, pick up and put away your beads.
Grooves help arrange colours, spacing and strand length before stringing.
Reach for it when: Planning necklaces, bracelets and repeating bead patterns.
Allow for clasps, findings and the finishing method. Check the finished piece with a ruler or sizing form.
A soft surface helps keep beads from rolling away.
Reach for it when: Seed bead weaving, bead embroidery and everyday stringing.
Keep the mat clean so small beads stay easy to see and pick up.
Combines a soft bead mat with a sorter for keeping small groups of beads apart.
Reach for it when: Separating colours or project components during detailed beadwork.
Arrange colours in the order you use them and keep their original labels nearby for reordering.
A flocked tray provides a contained work surface with a clear cover.
Reach for it when: Keeping a small project together between sessions.
Close the cover before moving the tray and keep it level. A cover does not make loose beads spill-proof.
Small tips help pick up and position tiny beads and findings.
Reach for it when: Handling components that are difficult to grasp with your fingers.
Choose the tip style that fits the task and use light pressure on delicate finishes.
Gather loose beads and transfer them between a work surface and containers.
Reach for it when: Sorting supplies and tidying a beading session.
Choose a scoop size that suits the beads and the opening of the storage container.
A shallow tray helps sort beads; the funnel opening guides them back into storage.
Reach for it when: Returning loose seed beads to tubes, jars or bags.
Check that the container opening is large enough, then pour slowly.
| Your project | A useful starting kit |
|---|---|
| Strung necklace or bracelet | Bead mat or board, bead stoppers, suitable scissors or cutters, and finishing tools matched to your cord or beading wire. |
| Wire loops and earrings | Round-nose pliers, chain-nose or flat-nose pliers, and cutters rated for the wire. A 1-Step Looper is an optional helper for repeated simple loops. |
| Seed bead weaving | Suitable beading needles, thread scissors, a bead mat and good lighting. A sorter helps keep several colours apart. |
| Knotted pearls or beads | Compatible cord and beads, scissors, and a beading awl or knotting tool. |
| Loom beadwork | A loom with enough working width, compatible needles and thread, seed beads, scissors and a bead mat. |
| Memory-wire jewellery | Dedicated memory-wire cutters and suitable end-loop pliers or the maker’s recommended end caps. Ordinary soft-wire cutters can be damaged by memory wire. |
Use the lightest pressure that does the job. Keep jaws clean and test on spare wire when working with a delicate finish.
Respect each cutter’s material and gauge limits. Store tools dry and replace or service damaged tools.
Protect your eyes when cutting wire or using a reamer. Control loose wire ends, keep sharp points away from your hands and store tools safely.
Keep building your skills with our related guides.
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Last updated: October 19, 2026
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